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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.